Saturday, 16 July 2011


A pink ocean doesn’t happen every day. The deck overlooking the beach was packed with oohing and aahing campers as the sky turned brilliant orange (see Maria’s last post) There were only five of us out. There was a pause between sets during which time we sat on our boards and did the round of superlatives to describe the scene of which we were a part. Great rolling mal waves. Still water. Extraordinary mountain and sky backdrop. We surfed until it got too dark and the pink ocean had become navy. It was Tony & Kim’s last surf before they left. Perfect.

Last night the sky wasn’t as brilliant but I was just as stoked. This time only three of us out including Johanna and our friend Jules. Johanna got some great rides, some of the best she’s got I reckon, especially seeing as she paddled onto all the waves herself, some that were quite big for her. I was so proud. And I got a few little rides too that left me fully chuffed. We couldn’t believe there was only the three of us out. We surfed until it was dark; again.

Being out there with friends feeling at one with the ocean is really cool. I think one of the special things about this time at this place is the amazing sense of community among people in this extraordinarily beautiful, most easterly bit of this land. It’s something that could not be orchestrated; but it is wonderful to be a part of. Iconic location, fantastic people, friendships that blossom despite only annual engagement, and for a small time we live a little slice of heaven on earth.