Friday, 1 July 2011


I was almost not going to go in but relented at the last moment. There was a group heading down to the beach to surf, I thought I should join in the Byron Spirit even though I was feeling cold at the time and the thought of bathers, water, wind and cold was not that appealing. I have to admit once I put my wet suit on I actually felt warmer than I had before.

Twenty minutes later I was trying to stand upright in the water thinking this is crazy. The wind was blowing, spray billowing from the waves rolling in, it was raining and the current was so strong it was difficult to remain upright let alone walk the fifty or so meters to where the waves were breaking. And, the rain and sun created a rainbow, my wetsuit kept me warm, I managed to catch a few waves in and actually stand on my board – crazy and exhilarating.

Johanna had a huge fish swim under her board and moments later Colin looked up and out to sea and saw a dolphin take a flying leap and propel itself up and out of the water.

The evening finds us warm and dry in our van safe from the wind and rain, our tummy’s full (Colin cooked paella in his pot) and we are about to watch a dvd.

What a strange existence it is, this life in a caravan by the sea and what strange people all around us who love to surf no matter what. Crazy.