Saturday, 2 July 2011


There are some moments in life when you just really appreciate everything you have, and feel like you don’t need anything else.

One of these moments is when you’re sitting on your surfboard, waiting for a good wave, the sun is setting, the water’s beautiful, the sky is beautiful.

Another is when you’re under a sturdy roof, surrounded by sturdy walls and the smells of a delicious cooked dinner fills your nostrils, the heater reliably blowing warm air into the caravan.

And when you’ve reached the end of a 2.5km walk with many hills, (which means steps and harder walking,) and you’re on the Point at Cape Byron, looking out into ocean on every side of you. And there’s that feeling of satisfaction flooding your system. (Then it vanishes when you think of the walk back J)

And when you drop down onto a perfect wave, the exhilaration of it taking you over. And then you’re riding the wave, surfboard gliding smoothly on top of the surface. Then the wave breaks and you plunge into the cold, frothing water, feeling the excitement of a great ride rush into your veins.