Monday, 2 January 2012

not so swell

During the big swell of the last week it was hard to imagine flat water. But the ocean has its way, and Scotts Head, which is the best spot within 45 minutes drive didn't offer much to ride today. In part the problem was our timing, arriving a couple of hours before high tide and the sweeping bay needs to be on the empty side before the banks happen.

As per Maria's last post, I was thinking I could be the first of the throng to catch the emerging waves as the tide receded, but I sat and rose and fell on swell that promised so much but didn't break until the sand bank in the shallows 40 metres from shore .

I didn't mind. At this time of year the line-up can have 30+ people jockeying for position, so being alone oscillating my gaze from the horizon to the sweeping beach full of holiday makers did me just dandy.

I was sporting my new look. As David and Carol, our friends who dropped in last week said to me, when melanoma is part of your life, surfing is not a great past-time. I've always tried to look after myself, especially these last few years as we've spent so much time outdoors, but I figured its now time to ignore the peaking dag-o-metre, and get myself properly donned for the sun. So long sleeve rashy and surf cap it is. When the sun beats down as strongly as it does in this land, and especially when you put yourself in situations where there is no shade (not many trees offshore), its offers some comfort not having my skin acting as solar panels.

Home for our second last dinner at Nambucca Heads. Seafood shop closed for New Year so no Samson as planned, instead we turned to our trusty barbecue and salads book and landed on some lamb kofta which we put in wraps with tzatziki, tomato, cucumber and rocket. Very satisfactory.

Its been a strange few days. it felt like when the kids left we needed to move on. When they are with us it feels like holidays. When its just the three of us we revert to our more conventional yurting lifestyle which is less about holiday and more about living simply, day to day as per the home page of this site. But as Maria and I talked about today, at this time of year when surrounded by holiday makers we naturally get caught up in the rhythms of families on annual leave.

Some of that will change in a couple of days when we move to South West Rocks. I've got lots of project work to plan for so will develop a rhythm that allows me to work for some of the day while Maria and Johanna do other things. Zac comes back to join us the week after in Port Macquarie so my priority will shift again to spending some swell time with my boy. Looking forward to that.